Abstract
Four years of data-driven analyses—Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis and Canonical Correlation Analysis (CCA), were performed for North and South Goa beach profile datasets (2018–2021) to improve data processing and interpretation. The goal is to understand the significant cross-shore morphodynamic variations by evaluating dominating EOF patterns and discovering inherent correlations between beach-face slope, nearshore parameters, and environmentally sensitive sediment grain size parameters using CCA. The method separates the data's spatial and temporal dependencies, allowing beach-face changes to be characterised as a linear combination of space and time functions. After analysing data sets from 45 surveys conducted during the southwest, northeast, and pre-monsoon seasons, three statistically significant EOF modes were identified. The outcomes of the seasonally sampled data differed, with most variations in the beach-face configuration explained by the first three eigenfunctions, corresponding to the three largest eigenvalues. The largest eigenfunction reflects the average slope of the beach face. The slope of the second eigenfunction varies the most from the mean. The coastline is generally in an intermediate stage, with episodic beach morphology variation. The EOF investigation confirms the widely known hypothesis that the beach face is the most morphodynamically active zone, with North and South Goa beaches displaying year-round rhythmic variation, with the slope modulation most evident in the northeast monsoon season. The multivariate CCA strongly links wave parameters and beach-face slope. Similarly, a strong correlation is observed between the beach-face slope and sediment grain size parameters, particularly the sediment gradation indices, D90/D10 and D84/D16. The results indicate that the methods are reliable for analysing and interpreting beach-face variation behaviour and controlling physical processes and highlight the need for long-term spatio-temporal analysis and a guide for coastline management.
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Data availability
The datasets generated during and analysed during the current study are available from the corresponding author upon reasonable request.
Change history
15 March 2023
A Correction to this paper has been published: https://doi.org/10.1007/s12145-023-00992-y
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Acknowledgements
The authors acknowledge the support and facilities provided by the CSIR-National Institute of Oceanography. Lynda-Uta Edet Okon acknowledges the CSIR-TWAS Fellowship. The help rendered by the staff of the Ocean Engineering Division, CSIR-NIO, is placed on record for their assistance in field and laboratory analysis. This article forms a part of the PhD thesis of the first author, registered at the Bharathidasan University, India. CSIR-NIO contribution number is 7026.
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All authors contributed to the study’s conception and design. Conceptualisation: [LEO and JKS]; Methodology: [LEO]; Formal analysis and investigation: [LEO]; Writing—original draft preparation: [LEO]; Writing—review and editing: [JKS]; Supervision: [JKS]. All authors read and approved the final manuscript.
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Beach profiles of selected beaches in North and South Goa
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Okon, LU.E., Seelam, J.K. Seasonal assessment of cross-shore morphodynamic behaviour of wave-dominated beaches using data-driven analysis. Earth Sci Inform 16, 1405–1425 (2023). https://doi.org/10.1007/s12145-023-00971-3
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s12145-023-00971-3